How to Tell When Your Hair Needs More than Conditioner

Treat your hair like a cashmere sweater, one stylist advises. Experts explain the difference between your everyday conditioner and a richer treatment, and the clues that it’s time to upgrade your routine.

Over time, your hair could get dry, and two products often come up as solutions: a better conditioner or a hair mask. Both share some common ingredients, but they treat the hair in different ways. Here’s what you need to know.

What’s the Difference?

A conditioner is a product you can use on your hair regularly. “These products work on the surface to restore moisture, smooth the cuticle and improve manageability after shampooing,” says hairstylist Katie Brenner, global artistic director at Oli G.

On the other hand, hair masks treat hair more intensively, with “a high concentration of key ingredients,” Brenner explains. As such, hair masks are more suitable for treating dryness, brittleness, and hair damage.

When Conditioner Is Enough

To know whether your conditioner is doing its work, pay attention to how your hair feels after washing it. “If it’s generally healthy but feels dry or tangles every time you wash it, you may just need a conditioner that gives you more moisture,” says Franck Izquierdo, co-founder of IGK Hair Care.

Signs You Need a Mask

There are several clues that could signal your hair needs more intensive treatment with a hair mask.

For instance, “If your ends still feel rough after conditioning, or you’re seeing breakage from color or heat styling, that’s when I’d add a treatment rather than just using more conditioner,” Izquierdo says.

“If your conditioner is not releasing tangles, and your fingers get caught in your hair, then it’s time for a full-on mask treatment,” says celebrity stylist Garren, co-founder of R+Co.

Garren also suggests observing your hair after drying and when styled. Frayed, separated, or dry ends may be a sign you need a mask.

If your hair often undergoes chemical treatments, it’s more prone to damage and dryness. In this case, Garren recommends using a mask regularly.

How Often to Use a Mask

Masks aren’t designed for use every time you wash your hair. Hairstylist Nunzio Saviano suggests using one “anywhere from twice a week to once a month, depending on the condition of the hair.” For dry or color-treated hair, New York stylist Tatiana Ramos says once a week or more is idea.

To apply the mask evenly on your strands, comb through your hair after application. Then make sure to leave the mask on for its recommended time.

Getting the Most From Conditioner

With most conditioners, you don’t need to let them sit. “After shampooing, apply the conditioner and rinse thoroughly,” Brenner says. It helps to be gentle with your hair, too. Garren compares washing your hair to cleaning a cashmere sweater, which means you shouldn’t be rough with it.

When addressing dry hair, it’s not really about choosing one over the other. Both can play a role, depending on your hair’s condition. “Conditioners balance and protect your hair regularly, but they can’t do it alone,” Ramos says. “Masks step in when you need to address deeper needs before damage becomes visible.”